This book was a treat, full of elegant writing across a broad canvas of food, cooking, and eating. Composed of forty essays pulled from Steingarten's regular column in /Vogue/, Steingaren's prose is crisp and well-paced and never once let me down. While some topics were more interesting and develeoped than others, there is a constant curiosity and passion for capturing food and the ways we prepare and eat it.
Steingarten has a scientist's eye for detail and immerses himself in thorough, sometimes fanciful, research and self-experimentation. He provides exacting accounts of regional cuisines (of France, Japan, North Africa, Memphis, and more), diet trends and food industry myths, and specific foods (from mashed potatoes to salt to ketchup) and food substitutes (olestra), as well a good number of recipes. Yet he always acknowledges his own tastes and sensations, keeping the essays moving with an energy and consistency that I did not think existed in 20th century magazine publishing. Nor did I realize that media coverage of the "French Paradox" originated with Steingarten in 1991.
Stand-outs include pieces on the Paris /Haut Bistros/, Kyoto cuisine, fruit and ripeness, /le regime Montignac/, and truffle hunting in rural Italy.
Also see Alexander Chancellor's [New York Times review http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9907E4DA143AF934A35751C1A961958260] from December 7, 1997
sub=And other gastronomic feats, disputes, and pleasurable pursuits